Book Review: Washington Territory’s Grand Lady

Washington Territory’s Grand Lady: Matilda (Glover) Koontz Jackson by Julie McDonald Zander is a scholarly non-fiction, well-researched and meticulously documented story of a hard-working early Northwest settler who could be called the “first lady” of Washington State.

Matilda was thirty-seven years old, the mother of four sons and pregnant with her fifth child, when she, her husband Nicholas, and their family journeyed west across the Oregon Trail in 1847. Their destination was Oregon’s fertile farmland in the Willamette Valley. It was a grueling journey, turned tragic when, before her eyes, her husband drowned in the Snake River while trying to free a tangled oxen. The shock of his death sent Matilda into early labor and she lost her infant daughter.

The family, heartsick, plodded on and finally reached Oregon City. Matilda was in a quandary. As a single woman, she couldn’t claim land, and had no means to support her family. Her health was not yet good enough to travel the long road back home to Missouri. In early 1848, Matilda met and married John R. Jackson, an English-born naturalized American. The family traveled north to his log cabin, which he called Highland Farm. The cabin, now preserved, is located in what is now known as Chehalis, Washington. John and Matilda had one son and two daughters, making a total of seven children.

The farm was productive. They raised cattle, pigs, sheep, goats, horses and chickens, and grew many crops. It’s hard to imagine how difficult their life was with no modern conveniences such as running water or electricity, nor automated farm implements. Yet with hard work, they prospered and helped form what became Washington Territory in 1853, and later a state in 1889.

Highland Farm was located midway along the Cowlitz Trail, an important north-south route between Oregon City and Puget Sound. It’s location made the Jackson home an ideal place to stop and rest and to conduct business. Matilda was known as a superb homemaker and travelers were always welcomed. Visitors to their home included Ulysses S. Grant, George McClellan (both of whom would become generals), and Isaac Stevens, the first territorial governor of Washington. John Jackson, Matilda’s husband, in addition to farming, became politically active as the population of the area increased. He served as sheriff, assessor, tax collector, territorial representative and justice of the peace. In all of these roles, Matilda supported his efforts by making their home welcoming and a place to meet.

Washington Territory’s Grand Lady, enriched by pictures, letters, diaries, and ledgers, is a valuable resource of Washington history. Matilda (Glover) Koontz Jackson (1811 – 1901) was indeed a remarkable lady, a dedicated wife and mother, and a person whose courage and hospitality helped shape the State of Washington.

A Unique Adventure:Deception Pass Tours

View of Deception Pass Bridge from the tour boat

Our family recently experienced a unique tour of Deception Pass, a strait separating north Whidbey Island from Fidalgo Island in northwest Washington. The Pass, which connects Skagit Bay, part of Puget Sound, with the Strait of Juan de Fuca, has an extremely strong tidal current. The bridge that spans the area is actually two bridges known collectively as Deception Pass Bridge, completed in 1935 and declared a National Historic Landmark in1982.

Ten members of our family boarded the Island Whaler, a jet-drive catamaran, operated by Deception Pass Tours. The boat holds thirty-three passengers, each one getting a comfortable seat on an open deck with a 360°unobstructed view.

As we sailed, the captain and his assistant pointed out interesting sights and the history behind them, such as the prison rock quarry that operated from 1910 through 1914. The quarry, located on a steep cliff, was worked by members of an honors program out of Walla Walla State Prison.

Before the Deception Pass Bridge was built, travelers had to cross on an unscheduled ferry, summoned by a mallet against a metal lumberjack saw which sounded a “boing.” The operator, Washington’s first woman ferry boat captain, would pick them up.

At times our captain brought the boat to a stop so that we could view and take pictures of the bridge, seals, porpoises and the many species of birds that reside in the area. Whales are sometimes seen in these waters, too.

If you’re in northwest Washington, the one-hour Deception Pass Tour is a delightful way to experience a unique, picturesque view of the shores, waters, rugged cliffs and evergreen forests of the area.

For more information and to book a tour:
1-888-909-8676
www.DeceptionPassTours.com

 

Going Aloft at Crystal Mountain

Our family recently enjoyed a delightful afternoon at Crystal Mountain where we rode the Mt. Rainier Gondola. Crystal Mountain is located in western Washington’s Mt. Baker/Snoqualmie National Forest. Our party of eight rode together in one gondola as we soared with the eagles up 2,000 vertical feet in twelve-minutes to the summit of Crystal Mountain. At the top we marveled at the unparalleled view of Mt. Rainier and the Cascade Range. From interpretive signs visitors can identify other well-known mountains such as Mount. St. Helens, Mt. Adams and Mt. Baker, all visible from the summit.

We lounged in sling-back chairs and contemplated the spectacular views. Dogs are allowed on leash in the gondola and also on trails. The gondola is wheelchair accessible.

While at the top we enjoyed a delicious lunch at the Summit House, the highest elevation restaurant in Washington State.

Interpretive guided walks are also offered on select days when visitors can learn about the local history, geology, wildlife and more. During the summer months several moderate to strenuous hiking trails are available for close-up views of wildflowers, wildlife and lakes. For hiking and other specific information, visit https://www.crystalmountainresort.com/summer/summer-activities/

Within a thirty-minute drive from Crystal Mountain is Silver Springs Campground, situated on the banks of scenic White River, just outside Mt. Rainier National Park’s North Arch entrance. The campground has 56 campsites, all with picnic tables and fire rings. The campground makes lovely headquarters to enjoy the park and its opportunities for fishing, hiking and picnicking, as well as access to surrounding areas. Camping reservations may be made through
www.recreation.gov or phone 877-444-6777.

Olympic National Park’s Wild Coastline

The expansive, diverse 73-mile shoreline of Olympic National Park offers constant delights with crashing waves, tidal cycles and spectacular views. Most of the beaches along this stretch are wide and sandy with superb hiking and beach combing.

Ozette, at the northwest tip of the park, can be reached along a three-mile boardwalk trail to either Sand Point or Cape Alava. A popular day hike is a nine-mile loop, which includes a three-mile beach walk.

 

One of our favorites, Rialto Beach, a two-mile stretch along Olympic National Park’s wild coast, offers smooth-pebbled black rocks, giant drift logs, pounding waves and magnificent views of offshore islands known as “seastacks.” It is also the start of the shoreline trail that leads to Hole-in-the-Wall, famous for the park’s best locations for tide pools. Rialto also has wide sandy beaches for easy walking.

Three beaches south of Rialto Beach are named First, Second and Third Beaches, and are worthy of exploration.

Kalaloch’s beach, at the south end of the park’s ocean coastline, was named by Seattle Magazine as one of the best ten beaches to winter storm watch. Visitors can spend hours here on wide sandy beaches, exploring tide pools, rocky cliffs and a myriad of driftwood ranging in age from new to ancient.

One of our favorite places to camp just three miles from Rialto Beach is Mora Campground, open year-round. With 94 campsites, we’re almost always assured of finding a site for a night or two. Mora has amenities such as fire rings with grates, accessible restrooms, water and bear-proof food storage. Mora also has a boat ramp and picnic area.

We think of summer as a time to camp, but with the right equipment, camping can be a year-round activity. If you’re not into camping, you’ll find lodging in nearby towns of Forks and Port Angeles. Winter storms along the Pacific Coast offer exciting views. Bundle up and try it.

On any of Olympic National Park’s coastline, you’re guaranteed an exciting outing any time of year.

Book Review: Best Hikes with Dogs: Western Washington

Dan A. Nelson’s practical hiking guide, Best Hikes with Dogs: Western Washington, includes necessary information to ensure satisfaction for dog owners and their dogs while enjoying hikes in Western Washington.

Although dogs aren’t allowed on national park or monument trails, there are plenty of wonderful hikes to enjoy in Western Washington. In this guidebook, Nelson describes 85 hikes, complete with quick references for distance round trip, difficulty on a scale of one to five, highest elevation point, elevation gain, best season, map, contact information and GPS coordinates, followed by detailed descriptions of the individual hikes.

In addition to specific destinations, at the beginning of the book Nelson goes into some detail about hiking with a dog in general, which I found particularly interesting. In the “Getting Ready” section, Nelson emphasizes the importance of good training, including use of a leash on the trail. Permits and regulations must be obeyed, not only for human and dog safety, but for the sake of the environment.

“Leave No Trace” is discussed in detail and encompasses much more than hauling your own garbage out. It means camp a distance away from a water source such as a lake or stream, not wash in the water, but collect water in a container and take it back to camp. Camp on hard ground so you won’t trample grass or fragile vegetation. Nelson gives many more examples of ways to keep the wilderness intact by leaving no trace.

The trail etiquette section was an eye-opener for me. For instance, when dog owners meet any other trail users, dog and owner must yield the right-of-way, stepping well clear of the trail to allow the other users to pass without worrying about “getting sniffed.” Another: When a dog meets a horse, the dog owner must yield the trail and ensure the dog remains calm. Also, stay within view so that the horse isn’t suddenly spooked when he sees the dog.

Another rule of etiquette I learned is that when hikers meet other hikers, the group heading uphill has the right-of-way. There are many more important points the author makes, points that make sense once the reasons are explained.

Best Hikes with Dogs: Western Washington is a valuable reference for hikers with dogs, or even without dogs. Dan Nelson is the author of several guidebooks, all published by The Mountaineer Books.

Review: The Heart Trilogy

In The Heart Trilogy, Carmen Peone has skillfully created three novels about a Native girl in the emerging American West. Filled with heart and compassion, the character Spupaleena grows in skill, knowledge, leadership, and in her relationship with her newly found Christian God.

Change of Heart

 

Change of Heart

When Spupaleena, 13, runs away from her Arrow Lakes pit home near Eastern Washington’s Columbia River, she escapes from more than a bossy big sister. But she doesn’t consider the difficulty of traveling by foot in the dead of winter. Change of Heart is a story of survival, compassion, love and enduring faith.

 

 

Heart of Courage

 

Heart of Courage

Spupaleena,16,dreams of breeding and racing horses. Although her father is against her pursuing this male-dominated sport, Spupaleena feels that God has put into her heart the love of horses and that she is fulfilling her destiny. She receives a gift of a four year-old Tobiano stud colt that is ready to ride and a perfect match for Spupaleena’s enthusiasm and skill. Heart of Courage is a story of a girl determined to fulfill her destiny.

 

Heart of Passion

Heart of Passion

Spupaleena, now in her late teens, has built a stable of powerful race horses. Her team of relay racers are consistent winners, much to the chagrin of a vengeful boy. Passionate about her vocation, Spupaleena overcomes many obstacles, including both human and horse injuries. She turns to God for direction in how to handle her enemy, this boy who is determined to see her fail. Heart of Passion is a story of compassion, faith and determination.

 

Carmen Peone has written an engaging trilogy steeped in Native American and religious culture. She lives on the Colville Confederated Indian Reservation and has studied the language and customs of her husband’s people, the Sinyekst. With her American Paint horses she has competed in local Extreme Trail Challenges. It’s no wonder The Heart Trilogy rings true with knowledge and authority. For more information about the author, visit www.CarmenPeone.com

A Logger’s Daughter: Growing up in Washington’s Woods

Joan Rawlins Husby’s delightful memoir, A Logger’s Daughter: Growing up in Washington’s Woods gives readers a poignant view of the life and times of growing up in Washington’s wilderness in the ‘40s and ‘50s.

Joan Rawlins was born just months before her parents, Delbert and Marie Rawlins’, moved from North Dakota to Washington’s Robe Valley, at the foot of Mt. Pilchuck. The Rawlins lived in a tiny cabin until Joan’s father could build a larger cabin of scrounged material. Eventually, the Rawlins had five children who played in the great outdoors with other loggers’ children.

Husby shares with readers a life of growing up in Washington’s forests, the daughter of a logger. Although her parents didn’t have a lot of ready cash and worked hard for every advantage they had, there was always food on the table and love to spare. The family was years in getting electricity and running water. Their “bathroom” was a two-holer a distance from the house. Heating fuel was wood, hand-cut and split. They raised chickens for eggs and meat, and rabbits for meat and skins to sell to Sears, Roebuck and Company.

If logging was shut down by fire, strike or snow, Husby’s father earned money by making roofing shakes, or taking on any job that would put food on the table.

Equally interesting is Husby’s writing of the area’s history. When they arrived in Robe Valley, most of the timber was virgin. Many of the cedar trees were as wide in diameter as her father was tall. In the early days, timber was cut by hand-saw. Raging rivers changed the lay of the land. The purpose of railroads evolved from mining to tourism.

Husby creates vivid pictures of family and landscape, giving the reader a taste of yesteryear and a glimpse of a childhood in a pre-tech age.

I highly recommend this memoir of a simple life in a simpler time. Many will relate to at least parts of this book, while others will marvel at the grit it took to simply survive deep into Washington’s woods.

To purchase a copy of A Logger’s Daughter, visit www.rainsongpress.com or contact the author, Joan Husby <hjhusby@frontier.com>.